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Our next port of call was Trinidad and I spent the morning in a vain quest to find Carnival costumes.  I find it astonishing that on an island where Carnival is clearly one of the major tourist attractions, there is no permanent exhibition of Carnival costumes open to the public.  As a true fashionista, my main quest on the island was, of course, to see the flamboyant Carnival costumes.  

Three taxis rides took us to three different Carnival offices offering small snapshots of the big event: photographs, maybe a mask or two and a couple of full-size models, but nothing showing the truly spectacular event which Carnival in Trinidad must surely be.  It wasn't until the final day of my trip, in Olinda, Brazil, that I would see a full array of Carnival figures and even have my final evening played out with a full band rehearsal.

caroni mangroves
Sustained by lunch, for our afternoon's entertainment we had booked something completely different: a boat ride through the Caroni Swamp, also known more euphemistically as the Caroni Nature Reserve.

 

snake caroni

Our guide, Madoo, was reputedly the best on the island and so, undeterred by the early evening drizzle, we set off through the mangrove-lined waterways to find the star of the show: the Scarlet Ibis. The Scarlet Ibis begins its life as a relatively drab grey and white bird, but its diet of red mangrove tree crabs slowly turns it a spectacular vivid scarlet.

 

Unusually for me given my poor observational skills, I spotted a snake hanging out in a tree in one of our forays into a small side creek. 

As dusk started to fall, we waited across the lagoon opposite a large island where the first of the Scarlet Ibis came in to roost for the night. There were already plenty of blue and white herons coming in to roost on the same island. Over the next half hour, the sky filled with small flocks of Ibis, usually around 6 to 12 in a group, all landing on the same tree-covered island. 

Eventually the entire island looked very seasonal, like a gigantic Christmas Tree covered in red baubles!  

0 Comments | Posted By Carry Somers

Cartagena de las India, Colombia

Thursday, 13 January 2011 22:33:27 GMT

From around 7000BC, the Puerto Hormiga culture was found on the Caribbean coast of Colombia and consecutive cultures included the Karibs, Malibus, Arawaks and Kalamari peoples. Around 1000AD the Tairona culture thrived in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Their descendants, the Kogi, were featured in an incredible book and film 'From the Heart of the World' where they, the Elder Brother, sent a warning to us, the Younger Brother, about how our actions are causing an ecological imbalance on their sacred mountain.

Cartagena de las Indias is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a city I had always wanted to visit due to its well-preserved colonial architecture painted in warm ochre hues, with beautiful wooden balconies.  The city certainly did not disappoint and I think in this case pictures are better than words.  We stopped for a cup of coconut lemonade under the relative coolness of the courtyard arches in the Sofitel hotel, housed in a former monastery with toucans hopping from chair to chair.  Cartagena is definitely a city I want to revisit and would make an ideal location for a Pachacuti photoshoot!

 

lady fruit cartagena

toucan sofitel cartagena

 

 

portal de los dulces cartagena

clock tower cartagena

 

 

 

0 Comments | Posted By Carry Somers

Travels in Caribbean, Central and South America

Sunday, 14 November 2010 15:35:09 GMT

Excited to be planning a long trip to South America, including many countries which I haven't been to in around fifteen years and some I have never visited.

south america map

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My last journey to Guatemala, Honduras and Belize was when I was 6 months pregnant with my daughter, travelling for 2 days over a cobblestone road to reach the ruins of Copan.  That journey ended rather eventfully in a shipwreck and almost going into labour on the plane back to the UK.  If you haven't read this story, it's on my blog entry The Accidental Mumpreneur 

 

After 20 years of travelling to Latin America on a regular basis for work, I feel like it is time to fall in love with the continent again, its culture and its people and rediscover the real reason I set up Pachacuti.  I spent most of the time on my MA in Native American Studies working with PhD students (I was the only person on my Masters!) who were researching the Mayan glyphs and I'm really excited to have the chance to do some research into these areas again as part of our trip on Voyages of Discovery.  We'll be visiting the ruins of Chitchen Itza, Copan and Tikal.  Or at least I will, I'm not sure I'll be able to drag Mark away from the fantastic snorkelling opportunities off the coast of Central America.   The cruise is accompanied by a programme of lectures.  I did offer my services, but Voyages of Discovery had already filled all of the lecture posts for the trip.

 

From Cuba, where there is a Latin American Handicraft Fair taking place, we travel to Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Belize and then to Cartagena where there is a Fashion, Accessories and Art fair on the day I arrive.  Next it's two days in Venezuela.  It's 19 years since I was last in Venezuela and I'm sorry to say that I had a really bad experience both of the country and of the men in particular, so I'm hoping that this trip will help to change my opinion of what I'm sure is a wonderful country.  Next, it's cruising up the Orinoco, then Devil's Island and up the Amazon, before finishing off with several ports of call down the coast of Brazil.  I'm particularly looking forward to travelling up the Orinoco as when I was working in Venezuela in 1991 helping to write cruising guides to the Caribbean, I was offered a fantastic job on a luxury yacht sailing up to the source of the Orinoco.  I turned it down as thought that working on the cruising guides would be a good combination of sailing on a classic yacht and more academic work, but it turned out to be the most dreadful nightmare and I jumped ship about a month later.

 

I think my problem is going to be luggage allowance as I want to bring about 10 kilos of books to keep me going for 34 days: The Latin American Fashion Reader, several books about the pre-colonial architecture of the meso-American region, as well as a novel or two.  I'm looking forward to re-reading two books which inspired me when I was sailing in South America and the Caribbean 20 years ago: Tristes Tropiques by Claude Levi-Strauss and The Saddest Pleasure by Moritz Thomsen. 

 

In addition, I'm hoping that the trip will prove an inspiration for designing my 2012 Panama Hat collection, so sketch books and pens will also need to be brought in my luggage.  Added to this, I'm planning to pick up the samples for our exciting new recycled, Fair Trade bag collection when I'm in Cartagena at the end of December.

 

I'm hoping to blog from the various ports of call as long as I can get WiFi, so look out for the journal of my Latin American Odyssey coming up from mid-December!

0 Comments | Posted By Carry Somers