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Preserving Rural Embroidery Skills

Tuesday, 28 June 2011 02:36:34 BST

Pachacuti has always worked in some the most remote rural areas of the Andes and one of our principal aims is to create sustainable rural livelihoods for our producers.

 

embroiderer ecuadorI am in Ecuador for a few weeks, the main purpose of my trip being to explain to our Panama hat producers all of the intricate details entailed in the production of our 2012 collection.  It is our most ambitious to date, but our weavers love working on new patterns and we have already discovered that they weave our coloured panama hats faster than the equivalent hat in a natural colour!

 

My first few days were based in Otavalo, from where I could travel out to the villages to see our embroiderers, tailors and felt hat makers.  I had come prepared to work on embroidery designs as I had learnt two months ago when visiting our embroidery group that high cotton prices meant that most buyers were either taking their designs to cheaper countries, or converting to machine embroidery.

 

embroiderer ecuador 2

 

Our embroidery group, who are based about an hour north of Otavalo on a remote mountainside, had been the first of our producer groups to receive glasses and cataract operations two years ago and I was keen to hear how they were progressing.  However,  Mathilda who co-ordinates all of our embroidery, told me about her latest visits to see the group. "Every time I visit" she explained "the embroiderers ask if there are any orders from Pachacuti due to the higher Fair Trade prices paid.  If there are no orders, they would rather earn money picking tree tomatoes as the market price for their skills is so low". Realising what a huge responsibility this creates for Pachacuti, I returned to my hotel and spent the entire weekend working on embroidery designs for a dress and a blouse in black cotton, so that at least we can place orders to sell in our shop over the Autumn period. 

 

Ecuadorian cotton wears and washes so well and we get a lot of repeat customers in our shop, yet the embroidered blouses are often more of an afterthought for me after designing our hats, so I left the area with new resolve to create more embroidery designs each year so that these traditional skills do not die out. 

 

embroidery design Pachacuti

My designs are usually based on traditional Ecuadorian embroideries, updated with different elements; I may include the odd motif from Mexican embroidery, or take some influence from '50s design.  Mathilda will carefully copy out my designs onto the sleeves and yolks of garments and take these to the embroiderers, collect them a week later and sew them into the garments. 

 

I think the photograph below shows exactly what we are trying to do at Pachacuti: Mathilda sitting at her sewing machine with her field of maize and vegetables outside the window.  The family are almost self-sufficient from their land, only purchasing essentials such as flour and rice from the local shop.

 

Mathilda embroidery ecuadorAs traditional dress continues to westernise and buyers seek cheaper alternatives, these skills could be lost within a generation or two.  The region's boom days of the early '90s when everyone was exporting Ecuadorian wool jumpers, coincided with the men in the area converting to jeans and trainers instead of white trousers and alpargatas and ditching their traditional felt hat, keeping only their long plait as a symbol of indigenous identity.  Will women's dress follow this same fate?  At present almost all indigenous women in the area continue to wear traditional dress, which includes highly embroidered blouses.  Although not a pre-colonial textile art in the Andes, embroidery has been practiced in this region since it was imported by the Spanish in the 16th Century and was rapidly incorporated into traditional dress.

 

I'd always felt that we were playing our small part in preserving the traditional textile heritage of the Andes, but hearing that the embroiderers would rather earn money picking tree tomatoes than embroidering, unless that embroidery happened to come from Pachacuti, makes me realise what an incredible responsibility I have to the people and culture of this region.

 

0 Comments | Posted By Carry Somers

Pachacuti wins at Observer Ethical Awards

Sunday, 12 June 2011 15:31:42 BST

Thursday night saw me heading to the Victoria & Albert Museum for the 'Green Oscars', the Observer Ethical Awards, but first I had to visit Amin Phillips of Love & Be Loved who had created the most stunning green silk dress for me to wear. 

 

I arrived at the V&A with my husband & Pachacuti Marketing Manager, Mark Rogers, and Doraliz Aranda, Production Manager.  One of the first people I spotted, unmissable in her fuscia Pachacuti fedora, was Pamela Ravasio, Pachacuti's Press & Marketing Officer, who was independently up for an award for her blog Shirahime.

 

livia firth observer awardsAfter champagne and socialising, the awards commenced.  The panel was composed of 32 judges who included actor Colin Firth, TV presenter Ben Fogle, Deborah Meaden from Dragon's Den and model Lily Cole.  I was delighted to hear Livia Firth, battling laryngitis, announce Greg Valerio as the winner of the Global Campaigner category.  Greg pioneered Fairtrade gold which was launched this year and worn by Livia Firth on the red carpet at the Oscars.  Read more on Livia's Vogue blog.

 

livia firth observer awards

 

Other winners announced were Compassion in World Farming in the Campaigner category, with Bill Oddie accepting the award; the People's Supermarket, who were presented their award by Colin Firth; The Co-operative Group won the Ethical Business category and we were delighted when it was announced by Baroness Lola Young that Pamela had won the ethical blog award.  Before the awards started, Mark and I had been walking on the Pavegen paving slabs which turn the energy from footsteps into electricity and their win in the Big Idea category was extremely well-deserved.

 

Finally, it was time for the Fashion & Accessories category and T4 presenter Rick Edwards, together with Vogue fashion features editor Jessica Bumpus, took to the stage.  This is always one of the most hotly contested of all categories and we were up against strong competition: Veja with their ecological footwear made from sustainable Amazonian rubber and organic cotton and Christopher Raeburn, a designer who re-uses parachute silk and military fabrics in his collections.

carry receives observer ethical award

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Winning this award is such a fantastic accolade for Pachacuti's work in pioneering Fair Trade Fashion since 1992.  I am delighted that the eminent panel of judges appreciated the hard work which my wonderful team based in Ashbourne, Derbyshire, and I have put into in continuing to push the standards higher in the field of ethical fashion.  Pachacuti became the first company in the world to be Fair Trade Certified by the WFTO and we are now piloting an EU project on Geotraceability: the Geo Fair Trade Project. I am delighted to receive this award in recognition of the hard work which my staff and I have put into creating a Fair Trade, sustainable supply chain for our Panama hats, clothing and accessories and the innumerable benefits which this has brought to our producers and their communities in the Andes.  I can't wait to visit our producer groups in Ecuador this week and tell them about this exciting award.

Carry and Gordon Roddick

 

The final award of the night is the Lifetime Achievement Award, won previously by Sir David Attenborough and last year by Gordon Roddick, pictured with me left.  It was Anita who initially inspired me to set up Pachacuti after reading her autobiography and thinking that if she could revolutionise the beauty industry with no experience in that field, there was nothing to stop me from trying to do the same within the fashion industry. 

 

This year the Lifetime Achievement Award was won by scientist and originator of the Gaia hypothesis, James Lovelock.   His pioneering model is the foundation of climate science today.

 

I had a wonderful evening at the awards and later at the after party where we continued to drink champagne into the early hours, exchanging stories with the Observer Food Editor about our respective visits to El Bulli.

 

carry and pamela observer awards

The Observer Awards recognise those companies who make ethical living more accessible and achievable and this year's award winners do exactly that, from ensuring you can buy an ethical gold wedding ring to delivering weekly veg boxes or campaigning against mega-dairies.  It is a real honour for Pachacuti to be an award winner this year alongside so many other incredible campaigners and ethical pioneers

0 Comments | Posted By Carry Somers

Business Secretary Vince Cable delivered a speech at Marlborough House on 23 November in which he cited Pachacuti as a good example of responsible capitalism.

 

Vince Cable Responsible CapitalismMr Cable said that capitalism must adapt its model to ensure a more prosperous, stable future. The hallmarks of responsible capitalism included taking the long-term view; strong leadership and good management; investing in staff and displaying ethical behaviour.  

 

He talked about the perils of short-termism and gave examples of companies who aligned their long term economic interests with those of their employees, including JCB in Rocester who are based just down the road from Pachacuti's Ashbourne shop and office.

 

In conclusion, Vince Cable came to examples of good ethical behaviour "While Derbyshire-based Pachacuti, which I'm told does a rather fetching line in Panama hats, is the first in the world to be certified against the Fair Trade Sustainable Management System, which guarantees living wages to everyone working in the supply chain."  Other examples of good ethics included Tata Consultancy, Thomson Reuters and Café Direct. 

 

0 Comments | Posted By Carry Somers

Millenium Development Goals

Thursday, 23 September 2010 23:19:45 BST

The Millennium Development Goals are 8 international development goals that all 192 UN member states have agreed to achieve by 2015,  just 5 years away. The 8 MDG’s are:
1.        Eradicate extreme poverty and hunger
2.        Achieve universal primary education
3.        Promote gender equality and empower women
4.        Reduce child mortality
5.        Improve maternal health
6.        Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria and other diseases
7.        Ensure environmental sustainability
8.        Develop a Global Partnership for development


In August 2010 Pachacuti was Highly Commended in the International category of the National Awards for Excellence for our impact on Millennium Development Goals.  However, many individuals, businesses and world leaders are not doing as much as they could to ensure that we achieve these targets within the next five years.  This is why the Fashion FT100 has been collecting signatures to urge world leaders to act now.  

World's biggest pants

Fair Trade is at a disadvantage, competing with conventional fashion companies on an uneven playing field. This is because conventional companies don’t pay close to the living wage or work to sustainable environmental standards. If we wait for policy to change, the MDG’s will never be achieved in time.

The petition called upon  world leaders at the MDG conference in New York to:
1.        Drop the duty on Fair Trade fashion imports
2.        Give Fair Trade fashion organisations financial and technical assistance
3.        Procure Fair Trade clothing and textile products for the Public Sector

Ben Ramsden from Pants to Poverty and creator of the record-breaking World's Biggest Pants which you can see in the photo, took approximately 2000 signed petitions to the UN MDG summit in New York.

At the end of next week I will be back in Ecuador, meeting with all of my producers and hearing at first hand the difference Fair Trade makes.   It is not just the payment of a fair wage which makes a difference, but regular work which fits in with their agricultural cycles, training, improved health and safety, better education for their children and sustainable environmental practices.  Fair Trade impacts on so many of the Millennium Development Goals and makes a tangible impact on poverty reduction.

0 Comments | Posted By Carry Somers