Our first day in Costa Rica, Boxing Day, dawned overcast. Apart from the beautiful modern Cathedral in Puerto Limon, where we were disappointed to find we had just missed an afternoon recital of Handel's Messiah, there was not a lot to see in the city.
The next day we had booked 4 hours horse-riding a 30 mile bus ride away in Cahuita. Cahuita is on the Caribbean coast with black sand, palm-fringed beaches and, beyond the palms, a lush coastal rainforest. Trails lead from the beach into the rainforest where sloths fill the trees and the sound of howler monkeys fills the air.
When asked if I was an experienced rider, I probably wouldn't have said 'yes' if I had known that I would be given a very fresh 3 year old to ride, particularly with no hard hat. If I am planning to go riding, I normally travel with riding gear, but this was a last-minute decision. The idea of galloping across extensive sandy beaches was enticing , but I hadn't reckoned on a bucking, skittish horse, combined with the hardest saddle I have ever sat on. We spent a good hour cantering and galloping, with my horse dashing in and out of the waves and bucking for joy. With a rope bridle which had no bit, I had very little control. 
Torrential rain started an hour or so in to the ride and we all got completely drenched. My new ebay Prada 'raincoat' turned out not to be fit-for-purpose, unless that purpose is running from a shop across the pavement to a taxi, as I was soaked to the skin within minutes. The guide seemed keen to gallop back as quickly as possible, despite me saying that I would rather trot back regardless of the rain. I was concerned about getting bucked off, particularly as I was only one week into a five week trip, the longest 'holiday' from work I have managed in the last 20 years.
